My question, referring to the image above, is does the EINSY board have the control ports for 2 hotend heaters and two extruder E0 and E1 stepper drivers? It looks significantly different from your picture. Thanks for the info. Darned shame, though. I don't have my Prusa yet. I'm returning my Ender3 tomorrow, never going with a Bowden design again. Looks like I'm going to have to build the printer after the Prusa to get what I want.
There are some nice options on OpenBuilds. While I guess one could hack together an external MOSFET and external stepper driver carrier, and use custom firmware and connect those to the expansion headers, that's a lot of work. Again, while technically possible, it requires, something like these 2 parts, additional wiring, and custom firmware to map the new outputs. At the end you will not be able to use original Prusa firmware out of stock. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Does the Prusa have a proprietary Einsy board or can I order one of the einsy 1. I don't plan on multi materials at this time. But then, I thought the heatbreak was also a standard E3D v6 until recently. If there are indeed unused pin sit would be neat if the firmware designates a pin to indicate when operator intervention is required.
This would be so useful, for example, to interface with a flashing light that is visible across a large, noisy workshop. You can use some of the pins that are there for connecting the optional Raspberry Pi Zero. Here's a blog post that shows how to use them for triggering a camera to do a timelapse:. Forum Icons: Forum contains no unread posts Forum contains unread posts Mark all read.
Please Login or Register. English forum.Want to Buy one? UltiMachine boards are extremely high quality and built as the refined updated Ramps 1. Meaning it is a more reliable board and it has been designed with more robust safety features built in harder to destroy these boards by accident. Hopefully this will result in a more pleasant user experience for the newcomers to electronics. These boards are using trusted high quality components and assembled in the U.Trianglelab PRUSA I3 MK3S Clone - A First Look
Johnny R from UltiMachine designed the original Ramps series of boards and these are the next generations from him and his team. These two factors mean I can have a much lower markup on them than the ramps.
These boards also have the driver current that is set in the firmware meaning much less setup and testing time for me as well, again lowering the need for a steep markup and more accurate control over your steppers.
The mini-Rambo has four drivers, this means no dual endstop firmware on this board with out some skills and an external driver. There is much more information available from UltiMachine or the Wiki links in each section. Shop link. The board is labeled clearly on each port. If you are using an LCD the header adapter is not needed and you can plug it directly into the board as shown. To use an extruder you will need to flash the extruder enabled firmware or set the firmware to your appropriate thermistor value Most commonly You will then need to plug in your extruder heater, Thermistor to port T0, your print fan to port fan 1, and your extruder stepper into E0.
In addition to all the wires aboveyou will need to add what is shown in the picture below.
Everything else has been removed for clarity. The firmware will need to have the heated bed thermistor value set Usually to If you have any doubts or are unclear on anything the wiki page should have all your answers. If you have plugs that do not fit the the sockets on the Mini Rambo, you can persuade them to come off and usually your plugs will fit the bare pins. Gnarly Mini-Rambo Case. Information link. Then you need power to both the logic and stepper circuits. You can add a Short jumper to get power to both ports, mind the polarity.
The board does have labels but the Diagram below should be a little more clear. The Rambo 1. This means some of the LCD cables will be backwards… Easy fix here. Using an LCD requires an adapter on the full sized Rambo 1. Thingiverse Link. Information Link. Shop link Archim1. Before you ask, the only difference is the Archim 2 uses Trinamic drivers.This is Einsy Rambo 1. It is a compact version of our RAMBo v1.
A great alternative board if you need just the basics! Add to wishlist. Linux and Mac use CDC interface and have hardware driver built in. Additional information and sources at RepRap. Be the first to write your review! High-Quality Stepper Motor with connector and detachable cable cable includedQuick Link technology. Latest version of the motor by LDO. LCD, cable length 70cm. Zaribo frame is a bit bigger and this cable is ideal for it, since it's longer than "standard" cable of 60cm.
All motors by LDO. Solid, stranded and fine-stranded conductors with different cross sections can be connected. In Zaribo it's used in the Rambo-box. Package contains 4 terminals. High quality stepper motor for x- y-axis or for use in extruder. Home Electronics Genuine Einsy Rambo 1. Genuine Einsy Rambo 1. Add to cart. Security Policy. Delivery Policy. Return Policy. In stock 15 Items. Write your review Genuine Einsy Rambo 1.
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Einsy Rambo 1.1
Add to cart Add to wishlist.RAMBo v1. RAMBo Firmware. RAMBo Development. MiniRambo Development.
EinsyRambo Development. For beginners that want to modify their printer, firmware can be uploaded with the Arduino IDE. Customize the rest of Configuration. Instead of manually installing the Rambo addon's you can now install them from the Arduino Board Manager. From the Arduino File menu select Preferences. Open the Board Manager and the list boards will automatically update. Marlin and Repetier-Firmware and others? These pins are used for LCD interface or external stepper drivers.
The add ons need to be copied into your Arduino application's hardware folder. You should end with a boards. You will not have functionality on the extended ports. Firmware may not work as expected if the firmware developer expected the add on folder to be installed. You will need to use show package contents on the Arduino.
One of the key features of RAMBo like most other RepRap electronics is the ease of entry for development and research. The current for the stepper motors is set by firmware controlling the 8-bit digital potentiometer. For the end user this is seamless. I TripMAX is the current the stepper motors are rated for. Note the A is set to be limited to 2A. This means the adjustable voltage range is 0 to 1.Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 1 guest.
Home Forums Meta YouTube. In-depth look at the Einsy from Prusa's MK3! The heater cartridge uses still the known connector 2. This is protected with the 15A fuse 2. Josef Prusa mentioned that the power panic mode uses a hardware chip. So all the logic is done in the software, nice! The power input is used for motors one 5A fusefans, and all the rest the other 5A fusewhere 3.
Two of the P1 connector pins are different to the miniRambo. Nice that the TX1 got a voltage divider to limit it under 3. Also nice that the expansion port J19 got the 'power panic' pin; thinking of Octoprint with fire- what-ever sensors to switch of the heated bed and heater! Being backwards compatible? We will see in the Marlin firmware. I can't wait for the Ultimachine Archim 2 board which goes with a bit and seeing Marlin 2. The SilentStepStick in upstream Marlin are not driven in "dumb mode".
Upstream Marlin has also had sensorless homing for half a year now. So it will be triggered by a power loss from the PSU via this hardware chip.
BUT it can also be triggered by the Atmega or am i wrong? This means the logic on the board will be able to use a direct reading from mains input to notice a power loss. Of course, this requires a special PSU. This does require much faster "reflexes" on the board's side, which, I guess, the more capable processor on DUET can offer, but not AtMega. When it comes to the simple vs.
Marlin does support it and has done so for a whilebut it's still extra effort to wire it up. That being said, it might make for a great tutorial video. Who is online Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 1 guest. All times are UTC Imprint.Of course one could only connect the common ground and power the Pi via USB - but it would be way cooler to not have to use an extra USB power supply. Why wouldn't you just use USB then? It's nice not to need a second power supply for the Pi, as said in the first post: but it would be way cooler to not have to use an extra USB power supply.
I would be willing to bet a medium sum of money that the Pi 3 will run perfectly fine on the Einsy's 5V regulator.
Jo said you could do it in one of the interview videos. He said the only problem is it won't fit in the Rambo case. I am looking at the cable and trying to figure out how it would fit i have limited pi knowledge I hadn't seem the pi 3 board in long enough that i forgot there was a header there. But on the backside of the case there is a slit where one could easily put trough cables single or flat ribbon to connect the Pi3 which would sit OUTSIDE the case. I guess that slit is exactly for that and of course to bring the raspberry Pi camera cable out of the case if one would choose to use cam on the zero But that is not the point!
My point is about power: The Pi3 needs more power to even boot correctly. I know that Joe mentioned the Pi3 in a video months ago - but the current manual talks about Pi zero only. This should be enough for a Raspberry Pi if you dont plug in power-hungry accessories hard drives, large displays, So i can add my experience running a pi 3b through a header cable to the back of the Einsey.
I decided to try this hoping to incorporate the developed work that will come to not only use the UART0 serial from pi but the features that will use gpio 22 and I didn't run 5v from the Einsey and powered from an external source because i was afraid i would draw too much from the regulator. I went through all the recommended process to disable bt etc to make this work.
I found that serial through this longer cable directly to the header run about 4 ft suffers from interference. I used shield cable and also drained one side of the cable and also put chokes on the cable to try to eliminate this.
What is happening is that i can make a connection and start a print and watch the terminal. Every once in a while it would report a line discrepancy and re transmit the last line bid did not see a lot of errors if any. The print would continue for a while then stop and the terminal would show odd characters.
It never continues from there. At this point i have gone back to usb and have not had any issues with usb. If anyone has any other thoughts that would be great. Could you install a pi0 on on the accessory port and run raspbian on it and use it as a slave.
Then use a master Pi3 or 3 plus running the GPIOzero library to read and write directly to the pins on the pi zero attached to the Rambo. This would become a wireless control tablet as well as the octo print server for your printer. Just something I've been tossing around in my head on coffee breaks at work, let me know if I'm way off the mark though.
Has anyone figured this out? I installed the Pi0-w on my MK3, but it just isn't really powerful enough for camera and other plugins. The Pi0 is much slower than the Pi3 and is quite noticeable after using a Pi3 on my other printer. I would like to ask the same thing.However, if you would like something simpler and solder-free, wait until next week — we will show you how to make a Bluetooth shutter compatible with pretty much all modern smartphones.
Our solution has some pretty good features: the cable can be made with just a few basic and cheap components, so it can be tailor-made to suit your setup perfectly. The main difference is usually the connector, the way how the wires are connected and the voltages for the focus and shutter functions. Some cameras have proprietary connectors, which usually means that you need to buy a pre-made remote trigger, disassemble it and modify it.
However, you can find a comprehensive list of popular camera brands at www. The way it works is pretty basic: three wires are all you need — ground, focus, and shutter. Once you connect the focus or shutter wire to the ground, the camera will perform the required action.
Let's discuss the control board
How a Lumix remote shutter works by Doc-diy. The complete diagram is below:. If you decide to solder your own cable for a different type of camera, the parts to the right from the TLP will be different namely R3, R4, R5, and U2. The total price for the needed parts is roughly USDbut the overall price will be a bit higher since many of the parts can be bought only in larger quantities. You can even buy pretty good sets of various types of that part, so you have some extra stuff for future projects.
As long as you are not using the RasPi, the port is free and if you have a RasPi Zero, you are most likely going to use the OctoLapse plugin anyway.
There are two ways how to connect the wires to the RasPi port — either from inside the case or from the back. The choice is yours. We found it to be a bit easier to remove the back door from the case and connect the wires from the back. Just remember to do this when the printer is turned off! Simply run the modified G-code without the camera connected — the blinking LED will tell you whether the connections work. With a very limited selection of pins, the easiest option is to disconnect the filament sensor and plug the timelapse cable in its place — see the illustration below.
Remember that you will need to use the latest MK2. The best way how to create fluid timelapse is to take a picture after each layer. This is done by adding a piece of custom code to every layer change.
Slic3r PE can do this for you.